Identifying a problem area due to pet accidents is not a difficult thing to do. Dealing with it can be. So what is next? Now it is time to ask some tough questions; questions you need to be honest about.

Is this a problem that can be fixed?

We are not talking about the urine here. That can be fixed. This question is focused on the pet. Can you stop the pet from having accidents? Do you want to take those steps?

As they reach the end of their lives many pets become increasingly incontinent. Some owners are willing to put up with odor in order to enjoy those last months or years. Fixing the problem could also mean restricting the areas the pet can get to. Some are not willing to do this either wanting them to have more freedom. If the problem is likely to continue aggressive deodorizing would be a waste. There are other options.

How much does this really bother you?

This question can mean a lot. We find that some accept a little odor as just part of having a pet; much as some chewed shoes or scratched furniture would be. If the problem is not a huge concern, often less aggressive measures are acceptable. If it is driving you crazy! you will probably need to go with the more aggressive type of deodorizing. It is also good to remember that the odor and the stain are different. Sometimes when we get a call about an problem area the real concern are the spots on the carpet; the odor is not even noticed. Knowing the difference can help you get the services you truly want.

How much upset in the house are you willing to put up with?

Aggressive odor removal can be disruptive to the house as carpets are disengaged, padding and tackless strips are replaced, and carpets are cleaned and treated. The odor in the house may briefly increase during this process. The enzyme deodorizers take at least a few days to work and may take several treatments. We bring this up because we have gotten calls on Thursday for severe problems in which relatives are coming Saturday. That is not enough time for complete removal. If you want aggressive measures be able to have the time to do it in.

What is your budget?

In a perfect world, this would not be a question, right? But realistically we must consider it. Aggressive treatment of heavily saturated areas (disengaging carpet, replacement of pad, sealing of subfloors, cleaning and treatment of carpets, reinstallation of carpet) may be hundreds of dollars or more depending on size. We have many options that can fit your budget and your sense of smell.

Pet accidents are part of having pets, but they don’t need to be thorns in your side. After reading these posts we hope you have a better idea of what you are up against.

WE CAN HELP! Call us and let us discuss options that will fit your unique circumstances.

Why are pet accidents (urine) so hard to remove? When the accident first happens urine is in a liquid form and quite easy to remove; just vacuum or absorb it up, and the problem is solved. The trouble begins when it dries. Urine that dries forms urine salts, crystals that form on carpet strands. (Imagine rock candy: sugar is dissolved in hot water and strings are placed in the water during the cooling process. The sugar collects around the strings in the form of sugar crystals. This process is similar to what is happening in your carpet, but not nearly as desirable.) Bacteria begin to feed on the dried urine and cause the unpleasant smell that prompts the opening question. Why not just clean the area? The issue with this is the urine salts will not clean off with detergents and water. They must be dissolved off with other types of cleaners and deodorizers. A cleaning will remove temporarily remove the bacteria but not the urine. Immediately bacteria begin to grow again.This process of removing urine is much slower and involved than a simple cleaning for soil, grease, food, etc.

Second, the pet accidents are often complicated because a pet may start to develop a bad habit in an area we may not see. Cats, for instance, may start spraying a wall behind furniture or in a corner in a lower level. A dog may start lifting it’s leg in an out of the way place. If the bad habit begins in drier months like winter it may not be noticed. As the warmer, humid air of spring and summer come, the problem seems to suddenly appear, the moisture triggering the smell. By the time the problem is noticed many ‘deposits’ may have been made, sometimes dozens! At this point the urine has penetrated the carpet, carpet backing, and padding. The tackless strip may be affected, trim may have absorbed urine, furniture and walls may have urine dried on them. While the carpet may be the most obvious source of odor it is by no means the only one.

So the bottom line: there is no simple spray. But it can be treated! We can discuss options that may work in your situation. Part 2 will discuss some of these.

First, you need to understand why care and urgency must be shown in cleaning up urine. When urine is in liquid form it cleans up like any other liquid. You can soak it up and be done. The problem is when it dries! When urine dries, it changes. It creates urine salts, or crystals, on the carpet fibers and backing. Bacteria will immediately begin to grow and hence, the odor. The problem is that these salts do not dissolve with normal cleaners. Other spots will break down when exposed to soap, but not urine. When allowed to dry urine will have an odor that can last literally for years. Also, because of it’s composition, urine will often leave a yellowish stain that is usually permanent. So, as you can see, getting to it quickly is important.Let’s start with a fresh spot. Perhaps you catch your pet ‘marking’ an area or you can see it has just happened.

First, blot up as much as you can with a towel. Do this by using your weight or by standing on it. Do not scrub! This will only push it down further. Continue doing this until you are not getting any more moisture. This is perhaps the most important step, so take your time.

Second, use a carpet spotter to clean the spot (You can also use white vinegar in this step). Follow the directions on the cleaner. This will remove most of what is left. Again, use weight to BLOT UP the cleaner.

Third, spray with an enzyme deodorizer. Enzymes will break down and digest whatever is left in the carpet, eliminating the source of future odors. Enzymes take a while to work (sometimes up to three or four days) so be patient. Because it is a new spot, as an alternative, you can wet the spot with white vinegar. Then put a towel that is folded up over the spot and weight it down with books. This will continue to break down the urine and the towel, with pressure on it, will wick up any remaining urine.

So, now comes the more difficult problem: the old spot. Many times these are areas that may have been used for some time before you find them, having, perhaps, dozens of ‘deposits.’ What now? In these cases you must understand that this is not a surface problem. Because urine is warm when it hits the carpet and also based on the amount, often it penetrates into the backing and goes down to the padding and even subfloor. Many times these problem areas require professional help. We can do this. If you want to attempt this here’s what you do:

First, identify the size and scope of the problem. If at all possible, pull up the carpet and look at the backing and padding. Is it only a few square feet? Or does it span an entire wall length? Upon inspection you may immediately know if you can handle this or not. If it is more than a few square feet, we highly recommend calling us to help.

Second, replace contaminated padding. You cannot save this and it is not expensive to replace.

Third, does the subfloor need to be cleaned and/or sealed? A spray polyurethane will work nicely for this. What about the wall, trim, and any furniture? Does that need to be cleaned or removed? Often urine is not limited to the floor.

Fourth, clean both sides of the carpet. Start with white vinegar. Use plenty of it. This dissolves the urine salts. Let is sit in the carpet for 20-30 minutes to allow it to work, then blot or extract. Follow up with a carpet cleaner and again clean both sides according to the directions.

Fifth, treat both sides with an enzyme deodorizer. Again, use it liberally. It needs to get as deep as the urine did. Allow it to work for a few days.

Sixth, assess the situation after a few days. Can you still smell it? Than you may need to repeat steps four and five. Urine is stubborn; be patient. (With urine, odor and stain are two different problems. Often the odor is treatable but the stain is not.)

Hopefully, with these few tips you can be in a better position to react the next time an accident occurs.